Repairing Broken Concrete

 

Repairing broken concrete can require some heavy equipment and good strong labor depending on how large the area needs to be repaired. This example will be based on a badly damaged driveway or perhaps garage floor. If you do not have a truck available Building repair contractors Mumbai  to haul away the damaged concrete, a dumpster may be the cheapest means of removal from the site. Many carters will provide twenty cubic yards for this debris as long as only pure concrete is placed in the dumpster. The carters trucks can easily lift a dumpster that size filled to water level and they can resell the broken concrete to a Building repair contractors  local landfill for roads or someone using it for fill materials. Reinforcing bars and wire must be removed as much as possible and absolutely no household garbage of any kind is allowed.

Concrete floors and driveways will require the use of a jackhammer to break the concrete into workable-sized pieces. Small areas may be done with an electric hammer but thick reinforced slabs and large areas are going to require the use of an air compressor-driven hammer or hammers.

Rental shops will have a tow behind the unit, hoses, and hammers with bits. Ninety-pound hammers are the best but they are a bear to handle. Sixty-pound hammers are available but of course, will not do the work of the bigger hammers. The larger the jackhammer, the faster the demolition work will proceed. Always wear eye and hearing protection when operating a jackhammer. Start by cracking the concrete at the furthest edge of the work area away from the dumpster. You will then be able to run the wheelbarrow over a fairly smooth surface to the dumpster instead of over broken concrete or rough ground. If you are repairing or replacing only a portion of the concrete slab you will need to saw-cut the slab before removal of the damaged concrete can begin. Using a cut-off saw with a concrete cutting blade, as neatly as possible, cut a square around the damaged area. Try to penetrate through the slab if possible. Cutting through will sever any reinforcing bars or wire mesh in the slab making removal of the debris much easier.

After setting up the compressor, hoses and hammer make sure you double-check that the hose connections are wired together. Each end of each connection has a small hole in the metal fitting for the wire to pass through. Take a moment and do this chore. Air hoses can come part or open when subjected to high pressure or vibration. The tie wires will help prevent the live end of a hose from whipping around violently. A wild hose can cause a severe injury very quickly if left untethered.

Compact the earth/stone to assure there will be no settlement later on that will sink and allow the new concrete to re-crack. Using a hammer drill, drill several holes in the edge face of the four sides of the removal area of the slab. Drill sideways into the slab at least six inches leaving a 3/4 inch bore hole. Make a small amount of concrete slurry by mixing some mortar or concrete fines with a little water, and dip the rods into the slurry to coat at least six inches of the rods. Quickly insert one rod in each hole, spinning it as push it in. The slurry when dry, will secure the rods to the existing floor. These short rods will help prevent your patch area of concrete from sinking below the existing floor. You may add additional rods by tying them to the short stubs or add welded wire mesh to make a good solid slab patch.

Pouring the concrete is the easiest and most rewarding part of the job. Once poured, try to prevent the fresh concrete from drying too quickly by placing a tarp over the area for shade or once set and finished, by keeping water over the area for a few days. Wet burlap works great and is easy to soak with a hose. Avoiding premature drying will prevent the patch from shrinking its edges away from the existing floor edges, leaving an unsightly patch job.

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